Loewe’s SS22 celebrates “artisanal fashion”
It all started with trench coats worn back to front, like trippy shift dresses.
Next came soft, draped silhouettes in cool, muted tones, which appeared to have been expertly fashioned from sheets. (If your sheets were the most beautiful known to mankind, you have to understand). There were towering shoes whose heels were apparently made from bottles of nail polish, cake candles, and even broken eggs, as well as denim midi skirts adorned with silk clouds.
If the Loewe collection was inspired by the Renaissance painter Pontormo, there was also, to the naked eye at least, a certain homage to “artisan fashion”; the idea of creating bold new silhouettes by experimenting with what we already have. Exquisitely draped tops have been mixed with hard resin fronts, sculptural metal pieces have been attached to classic black dresses, while the pants feature fun knee holes.
It’s a welcoming thought. While other designers have optimism (and hedonism) in their eyes this coming season, creative director Jonathan Anderson is different; a dreamy realist if you will, understanding that in a world on the brink of economic collapse, perhaps the best thing a girl can do is look into her existing wardrobe and “think big.”
Craftsmanship has of course always been at the heart of Loewe. The 175-year-old fashion house began life as a family-owned leather goods business where luxury craftsmanship was what made Loewe stand out from the crowd – and helped it become the leather goods brand of choice. for the Spanish royal family, no less. (The brand also launched one of the world’s largest craft awards in 2016 with the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize). This collection then felt both deeply linked to what this brand represents, but also to the direction of fashion.
Fortunately, there has also been a nod to the past 18 months, something other designers have been loath to do, assuming it’s easy to get everyone out of the gym leggings they’ve been wearing since. 2020 and instead in mini dresses and bodysuits.
Big, soft tracksuits (which looked suspiciously like seashell jumpsuits to those of us born south of 1986) popped up, as did a Loewe version of Ugg with soft, soft teddy bear boots. . Even the now classic Loewe Flamenco bag has been reimagined in soft teddy bear fabric.
In many ways, Loewe is one of the most exciting fashion brands around: bold but real; luxurious but fun; forward-looking, but a recognition of what happened before. This is exactly what this collection shows.
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